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Old School Mongolian: A Musical Sampling

Sorry about the quality

Greetings from the People's Republic

In a hostel.

No time to write.

Just got back from dinner at the most amazing Peking Duck restaurant you're ever likely to come across.

Will send more details when there's time.

Peace out

Shanghai

Objective: Catch up with Willy
We arrived in Shanghai after a brief stop over in Hong Kong. Thanks to the change of government in Taiwan direct flights to the mainland had opened. Strangely, these still cost twice as much as the usual flight through HK.

Willy's Apartment Building

Willy our good friend from Thailand met us at the airport and took us to his palatial down town apartment. We met his wife Meg for the first time despite knowing him for over four years. We also met his miniature Weiner dog; quite funny considering Willy is a man of size. We unpacked and mixed gin tonics.

Weiner Dog

Fish and house-guests
I’ve always agreed with old Ben Franklin when he said: "Fish and house guests smell after three days." So we didn’t mess around and got straight to work – see some Shanghai: Paris of the East.

Hutons
Our first stop was to Yuan Gardens. We got a cab and made our way via some of the hutons. These are groups of courtyard houses joined together, where many families live together. It was interesting to see people living in these old dwellings, pretty much the same as they had for hundreds of years.

Tea House at Yuan Gardens

Yuan Gardens
A tourist Mecca with lots of stalls, pearl markets, souvenirs and old refurbished buildings – the throng was intense, bust mostly with Chinese tourists rather than foreigners. This I found to be the case around the nation; middle class Chinese can’t afford to travel overseas. They also live at the centre of the earth: the Chinese for “China” is Jhong-hua, which translates as “Middle Kingdom”; so why would you go anywhere else. Willy bargained on some t-shirts. I got a mock Chinese propaganda one saying “Let’s Liberate Taiwan” (apparently).

Dancers at Yuan Gardens

The Bund
This is where it all happened back in the day. Shanghai was the centre of imperial China (the British Empire mostly) and fortunes were to be made in exporting consumer desirables and importing opium. Unfortunately, the opium dens have disappeared, but you can get the feel of those times at The Bund.

The Colonial Bund

This stretch of river front property housed all the major banks and commercial interests of foreigners in China. As usual, the British chose the best spot in the city to set up shop. The old Victorian-style buildings are still there, challenging notions of what China should look like.

Shanghai World Trade Centre Building
aka The Bottle Opener

Across the river, the new financial centre booms with giant, modern, glass fronted sky scrapers and the iconic syringe of the Oriental Pear Tower. This was the tallest building in China until it was surpassed in 2007 by the giant bottle opener; also know as The World Trade Centre.

The Pearl Tower

First Impressions
Shanghai is not a city where you could get bored. There are heaps of clubs and cafes. You could spend an eternity just walking around the streets and basking of the beauty of the buildings. It was nice to be in a city with architecture after living in Taiwan, with its endless array of grey concrete cubes.

Other things that you immediately notice different from Taiwan:

• Shanghai has rubbish bins
• The streets are cleaner
• There aren’t gobs of betel nut everywhere
• The air is cleaner – the locals were surprised at this, but it’s true
• There are no temples – result of the Cultural Revolution no doubt
• Ice tea isn’t for sale on every street corner
• Hardly any scooters or motorbike – allot more bicycles and electric bikes
• LPG bikes that I’d never seen before
• People spoke good English
• The huge number of beggars and touts

The variety of people
Taiwan has only a few ethnic groups. Most of the population came from Fujian province. The big cities in China however, draw people from all over this vast and diverse country. You get a perspective of the ethnic diversity of the nation. There is a huge variety in people’s appearance. China is not one country, but a loosely bound federation, that has been held together by tyrannical dictators for thousands of years.

Satellite TV
Turning on the TV at Willy’s, I noticed that all the ads featured Filipinos. In fact all the local content (Star World, AXN etc.) was coming from The Philippines. Apparently, these stations were only available to foreigners and you needed a special permit to be able to get access to TV that included the BBC World Service or CNN; the impression of openness while most of the population were subjected to CCTV. Many locals find a way around this though and get these channels as well.

First People’s Congress
In our travels around town Willy showed us through an unassuming court-yard to the house where the Chinese Communist Part had its first meeting in Shanghai. Inside there were wax models of the assembled delegates and poorly translated exhibitions of the documents from the meetings. More interesting I found were the pictures of a very young Mao.

Young Mao

Shanghai Museum
An example of China’s diversity can be found at the museum. We dragged Willy along, in hope of discovering a little more about the country. This picture shows just some of the national costumes to be found around this vast country.



Museums in China tend to cater to the local population rather than tourists and have very few English translations, so you end up guessing what the exhibits are about. After a couple of hours of ill-explained ancient history it was time for a hearty lunch.

Food
Shanghai benefits from its international past. We had some amazing Cantonese food as well as subjecting Willy and Meg to the terrors of a vegan restaurant (aptly named “Godly Restaurant”). One of the most impressive meals for the trip was at Hamilton House, a 1920’s art deco style restaurant with an Australian-French chef, kick-ass cosmos and a rack of lamb that melted… I’m mean MELTED in your mouth. Divine.

House of Blues and Jazz
After this superlative meal we headed down to The Bund again to check out a live band. To my surprise, after living in Taiwan for such a long time (also known as the land that music forgot), they were good. They came and had drinks with us after their set. Here on a three month contract to play at the club, the American group were amazed at how well they had been received. Not surprising really, as their show rocked.

First decent live band in a long time

Halloween Party
The social highlight of our Shanghai experience was the pagan ghost party that Americans celebrate at the end of October. Willy’s students and Meg’s colleagues has been invited to share in a few drinks to mark the occasion.

Shanghai Halloween Decorations

I had an interesting chat with a British automotive engineer, who was working for BMW. I expressed concern over the apparent depletion of oil. He didn’t seem to worry all that much: “We’ll have oil for at least another fifty to a hundred years,” he said. “There are plenty of alternatives, but no one wants to invest in changing the whole infrastructure.”

“But will we choke on the fumes before the oil actually runs out?” I asked. He didn’t seem to have an answer.

It was interesting to chat with Willy’s students too. In such a short time I didn’t want to get into too many deep questions about the nature of “the party” and how it translates to the modern, industrialised, commercial nation that I saw. It was interesting to note that many of the linguistic challenges they faced were similar to those in Taiwan.

Adam finally Arrives
Regulars at The Odyssey will remember that our other good friend from Thailand was meant to visit us in Taiwan, but he missed his flight. He made it from Japan in time for the Halloween Party and we ended up catching up for a few drinks and having a long discussion on the nature of anarchy and Canadian politics.

Adam and the Mascot for the 2010 World Expo

Farewell Shanghai
Unfortunately, there is too much world and not enough time. We headed out on the night train from Shanghai to Xian the following Sunday – sad to say goodbye to our friends but excited for the next stage of the voyage: the wonders of the Chinese Rail System.

Public Sculpture Shanghai

The beginning...

The Trans-Siberian Odyssey - Intro

House cleaned, deposit refunded, friends fare-welled, cats returned, possessions sent, motor bikes sold, visa’s organised, money transferred and we are ready for the next adventure.

This trip had been on the agenda since I left my home town in Western Australia in 2004. I was originally heading to the UK but wanted to travel overland. I really don’t like flying. Having stopped off in Thailand, plans changed and the trip across Eurasia was put on hold while exploring other parts of the world.

Our main motivation for moving to Taiwan was to pay off the credit card and save money for this journey from Shanghai to Minsk, then onto Canada, where I now sit in a robe and slippers with snow on the ground outside and the tropical heat of our former home, just a memory.

Overview:

Shanghai-Xian-Beijing-Ulaanbaatar-Moscow-St. Petersburg-Minsk-Ottawa

“The hardest step of any journey is the first”

-Chinese Proverb

The first step of this journey was hard; and involved about forty-five steps rather than just one. Normally travelling on an Australian or Canadian passport they just open the doors and wave you on through. Not so much for China, Mongolia and Russia who seem to have immigration laws left over from the darker days of communism.

Letters of invitation

Apparently we needed to be invited to enter these countries. Do you know anyone in Mongolia? Well, I wish you would have told me, because we ended up having to pay a travel agent for the letters. Having got those we filled in application forms, had photos taken and even made up business cards. In China you don’t exist unless you have business card.

Embassy Mambo

Unfortunately, Taiwan is not (technically) a country, so it was very difficult to organise visas. We hired a travel agent to send our Chinese visa application to Hong Kong. The Russians had the forms issued in Bangkok. We called up the Ulaanbaatar Trade and Economic Office in Taipei, as they didn’t have an email address or website. They didn’t trust R’s photo so she had to make a special trip to the capital to prove her identity.

Itinerary

Lonely Planet books or “The Book of Lies” as they’ve become known, are about the size and weight of a house brick and are usually about as useful. If you really do need one, you’re more than likely to find some other sucker who has carried it to your destination and will be happy to lend it to you. They seem standard reading material in almost every hostel as well.

Still it’s good to know directions to your hostel when you first arrive in a foreign town, before the sun comes up, after a crappy night’s sleep on a train. With all the online resources, I made my own with maps, directions and hints to all the places we planned to visit. It was a light lighter, cheaper and specific.

One book that we did seek before leaving was “The Trans-Siberian Handbook” as it provides a mile by mile description of all the routes and provides interesting background reading for a ten day train trip. Unfortunately, this could not be found in Kaohsiung and would cost a fortune to have sent over. More about the search for this weighty tome later…

Packing

Travelling has become another arm of commodity fetishism. The dedicated traveller must have the latest lightweight doo-dad and foldable thing-ama-jig. Screw that I say and hit the road with a 9kg backpack. It really is surprising how little you need as long as you’re willing to do some hand-washing in the shower. See http://www.onebag.com/ for how this is done.

Off

So at 5 am we got in a cab with Handy Andy, our ever-reliable English-speaking taxi driver and headed through the dawn light; past breakfast places opening and pre-rush-hour traffic; to KHH International for the next leg of The Odyssey.

The Trans-Sib Odyssey Handbook

Shanghai

* For a feel of the China of yesteryear, check out Yuyuan Gardens, which are loaded with classical Chinese architecture. A lot of history resides in this little garden and temple. They were commissioned in 1559, built over the course of 19 years, destroyed in 1842 during the first Opium War, and later rebuilt and reopened to the public in their current incarnation in 1961. Pathways wind through rock gardens and bamboo stands, and stone bridges cross pools filled with bright carp. The word "yu" translates to "peace and health"—and the park was certainly designed with tranquility in mind.

* For 1920s Shanghai, head for the stately old buildings of the Bund. Or pay a visit to The French Concession, in Xuhui District (徐汇区), generally bound by Shan Xi Road to the East, Jian Guo Road to the South, Hua Shan Road to the West and Chang Le Road (长乐路) to the North. Some of the best sections are along Hu Nan Road (湖南路), Fu Xing Road (复兴路), Shao Xing Road (绍兴路) and Heng Shan Road (衡山路). The area is fast becoming famous for boutique shopping along Xin Le Lu, Chang Le Lu and An Fu Lu (安福路), all of which also have interesting restaurants.

* For 21st-century Shanghai, cross the river to gawk at the skyscrapers of Pudong. The area surrounding People's Square is also great for skyscrapers, as well as Nanjing West Road (南京西路).

* To find some peace, you should visit the Longhua Temple. It takes a while to get there but it's not as busy as the Jade Buddha Temple and the experience is fulfilling. You can also have a nice vegetarian Buddhist meal in both Temples.

* For Shanghai's modern cultural innovations and a look into the hot contemporary art scene head to the Tai Kang Road creative enclave. People from all walks of life converge amongst the traditional Shikumen thats home to design stores, fashion boutiques and cafes representing the best of Shanghai creativity. Unique local brands such as Verviaare amongst the most interesting, combining eastern and western influences to be at the forefront of modern Shanghai design.

Xian
Accommodation
* Xi'an Shuyuan International Youth Hostel, Xi Nanmen, Tel:029-62867888/87267330

Terracotta Army
The mighty army of terracotta warriors and horses, found in three vaults 40km east of Xian, is probably the most popular tourist attraction of Xian.
The terracotta figures are life-like and life-sized. They vary in height, uniform and hairstyle in accordance with rank. The tallest being the Generals. The figures include warriors, chariots, horses, officials, acrobats, strongmen, and musicians. The original weapons were stolen shortly after the creation of the army and the coloring has faded greatly.

Helpful Tips
Make sure you get off at the actual Terracotta Army site and not at the fake ‘Tomb’ about a mile or so before it which is a rip off tourist trap.

How to get there
There are buses leaving regularly for the Terracotta Warrior museum in front of the Xi’an bus station (opposite the train station, just outside the city walls). Take bus 306 (Chinese bus green 5) from the central bus station. It will take you to a parking lot right in front of the museum site within 40 minutes. A one way ticket costs ¥7.

Additional Info
The terracotta figures were manufactured both in workshops by government laborers and also by local craftsmen. The head, arms, legs and torsos were created separately and then assembled. Studies show that eight face moulds were most likely used and then the clay was added to give them individual facial features.

http://www.travel-picture-blog.com/china/terracotta-army-sights-xian/

Beijing

Beijing West Railway Station (北京西站 Běijīng Xīzhàn). Presently the largest. This station has no immediate connection to the metro system - the usual ways out are the packed public buses that reach most destinations around downtown Beijing, or the underground taxi rank, which usually has at least a ten minute queue. If you are not carrying much baggage, however, you can use the metro: Beijing Xizhan station is only a 15-minute walk south of the Junshibowuguan subway station (军事博物馆地铁站 Jūnshì Bówùguǎn dìtiě zhàn) on Line 1. Train destinations include: Xi'an.

Beijing Railway Station (北京站 Běijīng Zhàn). In the heart of the city, with decent public transport links. Destinations include: The trains for Mongolia (Ulaanbaatar), Russia, and North Korea also leave from here.

Beijing Downtown Backpackers Accommodation(BDBA)

Tel:86-10-84002429

Our address in Chinese is: NO.85,Jiao Doa Kou Nan Luo Gu Alley, Dong Cheng district

http://www.backpackingchina.com/nr/bookaroom.asp

Great Wall
Phone tel: (010) 6912 1338 (info) tel: (010) 6912 1520 (info) tel: (010) 6912 1423 (info)

Transport
bus: 919 to Badaling from Deshengmen, about 500m E of Beijing's Jishuitan subway stop

Hours
summer: 06:00 - 22:00 ; winter: 07:00 - 18:00

The Great Wall (Changcheng) wriggles fitfully from its scattered remains in Liaoning province to Jiayuguan in the Gobi Desert. The wall was begun over 2000 years ago, required thousands of workers - many of whom were political prisoners - and 10 years of hard labour. Legend has it that one of the building materials used was the bones of deceased workers.

An estimated 180 million cubic metres of rammed earth were used to form the core of the original wall.

The wall never really did perform its function as an impenetrable line of defense. As Genghis Khan supposedly said, 'The strength of a wall depends on the courage of those who defend it'. Sentries could be bribed.

However, it did work very well as a kind of elevated highway, transporting people and equipment across mountainous terrain. Its beacon tower system, using smoke signals generated by burning wolves' dung, transmitted news of enemy movements quickly back to the capital. To the west was Jiayuguan, an important link on the Silk Road, where there was a customs post of sorts and where unwanted Chinese were ejected through the gates to face the terrifying wild west.

The myth that the Great Wall is visible with the naked eye from the moon was finally laid to rest in 2003, when China's first astronaut Yang Liwei observed that he could not see the barrier from space. The myth is to be edited from Chinese textbooks, where it has cast its spell over generations of Chinese.

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/worldguide/china/sights/103677?list=true

How to buy tickets - westbound
Option 1: Buy tickets in person at Beijing...

The absolute cheapest way to buy westbound Trans-Sib tickets is in person at one of the reservation offices in Beijing. However, the two weekly Beijing-Moscow trains get booked up well in advance, so buy tickets as far in advance as you can. Westbound trains are easier to get berths on than eastbound trains, and winter is easier than finding a place than the peak summer season from May to September. Train 3 to Moscow via Mongolia is often fully booked a couple of weeks in advance especially in summer, although it can be easier to get a berth on train 19 via Manchuria, which occasionally has berths available even a few days before departure (but not always!). The basic message is this: If you positively have to be on a specific train on a specific date, forget booking at the ticket office, you should pre-book via CITS or some other agency and pay their extra fee. But if you're living in Beijing, or plan to be there for some time before leaving, and can be a bit flexible about exactly what date you leave, booking in person can be a good option. You can buy Trans-Siberian train tickets in person in Beijing at:

· the international train booking office on the ground floor of the Beijing International Hotel. This is about five minutes walk north of Beijing main station on Jianguo Men Nei Dajie, open 08:30-12:00 & 13:30-17:00 Monday-Friday, 09:00-11:00 & 14:00-16:00 on weekends and holidays. The staff speak basic English and leaflets are available with international train times in English. See the section above for fares.

· Beijing main station (metro Bejingzhan), in the ticketing office for foreigners. This is on the north west corner of the 1st floor, accessed via the soft seat waiting room, open 05:30-07:30, 08:00-18:30, 19:00-23:00. It's now reported (2008) that this office no longer sells international tickets.

· BTG Travel & Tours, on Fwai Dajie between the New Otani and Gloria Plaza Hotels, open 08:00-20:00. They have a desk for Trans-Siberian tickets, with information in English.
Option 2: Buy tickets by phone or email with China Travel Service (CITS)...

CITS are the official Chinese state tourist agency, and this is probably the cheapest way to buy westbound Trans-Sib tickets starting in Beijing, other than buying in person at the ticket office. You can book trains from Beijing to Moscow, Irkutsk or Ulan Bator by emailing support-en@cits.com.cn (you can check details on the CITS website, www.cits.net) or by calling CITS on + 86 10 6512 0507 or + 86 10 6512 0503). It was reported back in 2005 that CITS had stopped taking email or phone bookings, but they are now taking bookings by email again. Expect to pay by bank transfer rather than credit card. Reports also suggest they can't book Beijing-Irkutsk tickets, only Beijing-Krasnoyarsk and beyond, so by all means ask for Beijing-Irkutsk, but be prepared to accept an offer of a Beijing-Krasnoyarsk ticket and simply get off in Irkutsk (though their website shows Beijing-Irkutsk fares!). They will still be the cheapest way to buy tickets! Further feedback on the CITS booking situation is very welcome, to help keep this page updated.

How to buy train tickets in Ulan Bator, Mongolia...
You can buy tickets at the International Railway Ticketing Office on Zamchyd Gudamj, a couple of roads over from the railway station. The foreigners booking office is in room 212, open 08:00-20:00 Monday-Friday (at weekends use the normal booking window). International trains to Irkutsk, Moscow and Beijing can be booked up to 30 days in advance, except for berths on the Moscow-Beijing and Beijing-Moscow trains 3/4, which only become available the day before departure.

Trans-Siberian travel tips...
Should you travel 1st or 2nd class?
On the Russian internal trains there are normally 3 classes: 'spalny vagon' 2-berth compartments, often described as 1st class (and sometimes called 'myagky' or 'lyux'), 'kupé' 4-berth compartments, usually described as 2nd class, and 'platskartny' open-plan dormitory cars, sometimes described as 3rd class. The Russian Trans-Manchurian train (trains 19 & 20) only has spalny vagon 2-berth and kupé 4-berth, there's no platskartny. Kupé is the way most travellers go, and can be considered the normal class of travel. Spalny vagon gives you much more privacy, with 2 people instead of 4 in the same size compartment, but it costs twice as much. The choice is yours. Platskartny is a bit rough for most western travellers, but some budget-minded backpackers enjoy it.

The Chinese Trans-Mongolian train (trains 3 & 4) has 1st class deluxe 2-berth, 1st class 4-berth and 2nd class 4-berth. 1st class deluxe 2-berth is expensive but worth the extra if you can afford it as it has two beds, an armchair, and a private washroom with showerhead shared with the next door compartment. It gets booked out very quickly..! However, 1st class 4-berth on train 3/4 is virtually identical to 2nd class 4-berth (see for yourself in the photo gallery!) and is probably not worth the extra.

What do you do on a train for six or seven days...?
This is the question most people ask. Well, you put your feet up and relax. You read, watch the scenery, look out for the sights listed on your Trans-Siberian Handbook, go to meals in the restaurant car, sleep in your own comfortable bed at night, meet people, talk, play chess, drink tea, drink vodka, get off at station stops and take photographs.... The Moscow-Mongolia-Beijing route is arguably the most interesting because of both the people on board and the sights and scenery on the way. You are unlikely to be bored - the time just goes..!
Is not speaking Russian a problem..?

No, it isn't. Very few western travellers on the Trans-Siberian Railway can speak Russian or for that matter, Chinese or Mongolian. However, even if you don't speak Russian, it is worth learning the Cyrillic (Russian) alphabet. You will then be able to read place names and understand many Russian words. For example, 'PECTOPAH' is pronounced 'restoran' and means (surprise surprise) 'restaurant'. 'ABTOБYC' is pronounced 'avtobus' and means 'bus'. You'll also realise that 'CCCP', the old acronym for the Soviet Union, is not 'see see see pee' but 'SSSR'.

http://www.friends-partners.org/oldfriends/language/russian-alphabet.GIF

What about food..?
All the main Trans-Siberian trains have a restaurant car, a Russian one when in Russia, a Mongolian one in Mongolia and a Chinese one in China. Few people go to Russia for the cuisine, but contrary to what you might have heard, Russian restaurant car food is quite edible and not expensive. Allow about US$5-$7 for a two-course meal with beer. Some Moscow-Beijing tickets include meals for the Russian part of the journey, so ask your booking agency if meals are included. Don't expect an extensive menu, typical meals include ham and fried eggs for breakfast, schnitzel and potatoes for lunch or dinner, with soups and salads for starters. The restaurant car also sells beer, Russian champagne and (of course) vodka, chocolate and snacks. The Mongolian diner will probably offer you rice and mutton. The Chinese dining car has a selection of excellent Chinese dishes. You can also buy food from the many vendors on station platforms when the train stops. Top tips:

· Unlimited boiling water is available free of charge from the samovar at the end of each coach, so remember to bring a mug, spoon, coffee and a selection of cuppa soups or even dried pasta.

· My personal favourite: water-based drinking chocolate for a relaxing night-time drink each evening...

What about security..? Is it safe for families or women travelling alone..?
The Trans-Siberian is a very safe way to travel, even for families and women travelling alone. After all, the train is full of Russian families and women travelling alone, it's how the Russians themselves get around..! Just use common sense as you would anywhere else, lock the compartment door at night and don't leave your wallet or camera lying unattended in your compartment while you go to the toilet or the restaurant car. In addition to the normal lock on the compartment door, Russian 'Spalny Wagon' and 'kupé' compartments have a security latch which stops the door opening more than an inch or two, and which cannot be released from outside even with a staff key. There's also a safe place for your bags at night - if you have a bottom bunk, there is a metal box underneath the bunk which you can only get to by lifting up the bunk. In other words, for anyone to get to your bags, they will have to shift you off your bunk first..! Your carriage attendants may also lock the access doors at each end of the corridor at night to prevent intruders. So don't worry, you'll be safe and snug. Men and women share the same compartments, but on some routes you can now ask for a ladies-only compartment. If you're a woman travelling alone and do happen to find yourself sharing with men who make you uncomfortable, ask the carriage attendants if they can move you to another compartment and they normally will, without too much problem.
Do the trains have electrical outlets..?

To answer what has become an FAQ, all the trains have shaver sockets in the corridor and washrooms which can be used to recharge things, and the best trains have a socket or two in the corridor that can be used to recharge things if you keep an eye on them. However, you're unlikely to find any specific powerpoints for charging laptops, mobile phones or digital cameras in your compartment. Your carriage attendant may be willing to charge items using the socket in their own compartment, for a small tip.

Toilets & showers
Each sleeping-car has at least two western-style toilets and a washroom with sinks. The carriage attendants (provodniks) will keep the toilet clean during the journey. How clean depends on both the provodniks and the passengers in your car(!), but there's normally no problem, especially on high-quality 'firmeny' trains like the 'Rossiya' and 'Baikal', see the photo on the right. There are no showers on Trans-Siberian trains, with two exceptions: On the Trans-Mongolian Moscow-Beijing train (train 3/4), there's a shower hose in the small washroom shared between each adjacent pair of deluxe 1st class 2-berth compartments. On the Moscow-Irkutsk 'Baikal' (train 9/10), there's a shower that you have to pay for in car 7. There may now be a similar shower on the Moscow-Vladivostok 'Rossiya' (train 1/2). Remember that the need to take a shower every single day is a relatively recent western social trend, not a human necessity. Remember that not so many generations ago, Sunday night was bath night, whether you needed it or not..! Just lock yourself into the washroom half way across and make good use of the sink and a cup of water.

Smoking...
If you're a rabid anti-smoker, don't worry. There isn't a problem in the compartments, corridor or restaurants. But if you're a smoker, don't worry either. You can grab a smoke in the vestibules between the cars.

Do Trans-Siberian trains run on time..?
Within Russia, the trains are remarkably punctual. My train from Moscow arrived in Vladivostok two minutes ahead of schedule. However, on international trains you should expect an hour or two delay when crossing frontiers. For example, on the Trans-Mongolian route it is not unusual to arrive in Ulan Bator perhaps 1 or 2 hours late and in Beijing 2 to 5 hours late. Allow for this when planning any connections.

Can you stop off on the way?
All Trans-Siberian trains stop at stations every few hours for between 5 and 20 minutes, enough time to get off the train, stretch your legs, take photos and buy something from the vendors on the platform. But not enough time for a tour of the town..!

Many people travel all the way from Moscow to Beijing or Vladivostok all in one go on one of the direct trains. Other people prefer to stop off along the way, breaking up the long journey and seeing something of Siberia or Mongolia. Ekaterinberg, Irkutsk (for Lake Baikal) and Ulan Bator (Mongolia) are the most usual stop-overs.

On the direct Moscow-Beijing trains, the varied scenery and friendly atmosphere on board make travelling straight through without stopovers perfectly bearable and indeed, fun. There are usually lots of westerners on board as well as Russians, Chinese and Mongolians, almost all of them making the whole trip, like yourself. However, on a Moscow-Vladivostok train, you might be the only westerner on board for much of the journey, the whole trip is made within Russia, and relatively few of your fellow-travellers will be making the whole journey to Vladivostok. It may be better to break up this trip with one or two stopovers, perhaps at Ekaterinberg or Irkutsk.

Remember that Trans-Siberian trains are 'reservation obligatory'. Every time you step on board a train you must have a confirmed sleeping-berth reservation for that specific journey on that specific train on that specific date - you cannot hop on and off trains spontaneously without a reservation. So if you want to travel from, say, Moscow to Beijing stopping off at Irkutsk you need a ticket/reservation from Moscow to Irkutsk and a second separate ticket/reservation for the train you want to take from Irkutsk to Beijing. Think of these as two separate journeys, not one. You can arrange all the tickets and reservations before you go.

If you are stopping off, remember that the weekly direct international trains 4 and 20 from Moscow to Beijing can only be used by passengers making the complete international journey from Moscow through to Mongolia or China, you cannot use them for domestic trips within Russia, although train 4 does carry passengers between Ulan Bator and Beijing, and allows passengers for Beijing to join at places like Irkutsk. In practice, a typical trip from Moscow to Beijing with stop-overs at Irkutsk and Ulan Bator can be made using the 'Baikal' or 'Rossiya' from Moscow to Irkutsk, the daily hard-class-only train from Irkutsk to Ulan Bator and the weekly Ulan Bator-Beijing train, see the Trans-Siberian timetable page for train times.

In theory, the Russian railways have a system whereby if you hold a ticket/reservation from A to C, and get off the train at B, you can get the ticket endorsed by the station manager, then make a second reservation and pay a small reservation charge when you want to resume your journey. However, this does not work with international tickets. The Russians themselves don't often use this facility, so Russian railway staff may not be familiar with it. I recommend buying separate tickets/reservations for each leg of your journey before you go, but if you want to try this, you had better practice your Russian language skills..!

If you buy tickets at the station or through China Travel Service (CITS) in Beijing...

You can buy tickets in person at Beijing main station or via CITS (the Chinese state tourist agency). You can check fares at www.cits.net (click China Train then International Train Fare). More information about buying tickets in person in Beijing or by email via CITS.

Ulaanbaatar
http://www.goldengobi.com
(Улаанбаатар) [1], also Ulan Bator or simply just UB, is the capital and, with a population of around 1,000,000, also the largest city in Mongolia. In fact, according to recent estimates, this means approximately 1/3 of the country lives here. It is located just east of the center of the country.

Understand
Ulaanbaatar has a long and mysterious history, and is only now undergoing an industrial revolution. When under communist control, the city was forbidden to waste funds on beautification projects, and this policy is no doubt partly responsible for the city's present drab and uninteresting architecture. Still, as traditionalists, Mongolians love their capital. They understand that it is not an Asian beauty, but in their hearts they are aware of the city's history, culture and many struggles. Foreigners who take the time to get to know the faces that are hidden behind the gray walls will discover a hospitable and warm-hearted people. Explore the city from different angles, while at the same time do not ignore the abject poverty of many of the ex-nomads who in recent years have come to the city to find work after severe winters have killed their livestock. In this way, you will learn to unlock the city's many secrets and discover an Ulaanbaatar that is not initially revealed to the casual visitor.

Although summer temperatures are around 20°C, the city shivers in minus zero temperatures for five months of the year, with January and February being the coldest months with temps hovering between -15°C to -30°C. As a result of these prolonged periods of intense cold, the city has an average annual temperature of -1.3°C, giving it the dubious distinction of being the world's coldest capital.

Peace Avenue (Enkh Taivny Örgön Chölöö) is the main street and it stretches from east to west through the center. It's the main shopping street and many of the restaurants are along it. The street also passes by the southern edge of the central square, Sükhbaatar Square. Tourist information office is located in the main post office in the southwestern corner of Sükhbaatar square.
See

Note that most tourist sites have a separate camera/video fee (typically T5000-10000) in addition to the entrance fee.

* Gandan Monastery (Gandantegchinlen Khiid). The main monastery in the city has services around 10AM every morning. It is one of the few monasteries in the country that escaped the communist purges during the 1930s. Entrance T2500. .

* Choijin Lama Monastery. The monastery built in the early 20th century is now a museum. .

* Natural History Museum. 10AM-5.30PM, last admission 4.30PM. Interesting museum with a huge collection of expertly stuffed animals, and massive dinosaur skeletons from the Gobi desert, which no doubt are the highlight of the museum. Signs and descriptions are in English. Admission T2500. .

* National History Museum. 10AM-5:30PM, last admission 4:30PM. A nicely put together display of Mongolian history, with a lot of English and Dutch support. Admission T2500. .

* Sükhbaatar Square. The big open space in the center of the city with an equestrian statue of the 1921 hero Sükhbaatar, and seated statue of Chinggis Kahn. .

* Bogd Kahn Museum. The palace of the last king of Mongolia could do with some restoration, but is interesting to see anyway. The winter palace houses a collection of stuffed animals and a luxurious ger made of 150 snow leopard skins. Admission T2500. .

* Zaisan Memorial. A huge communist-era monument located on a hill near the city. It represents the Russian and Mongolian heroes who fought together during WWI and WWII. Nowadays it is a popular viewpoint where you can see over the whole city. There's also a huge buddhist statue at the bottom. .

City Tours
* UB City Guide, [3]. Provides a full-range of one-day tours in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia. Having lived overseas, the guides are fluent in both Mongolian and English can also relate the differences and similarities in culture, demographics, consumer behavior, political climate, and climate change impact in Mongolia.

Do
* Take a walk to Zaizan Memorial.
* Get an inexpensive massage at one of the many massage spas located on Peace Avenue

How to get cash
It is relatively easy to find an ATM machine with a VISA logo to withdraw cash. As long as your ATM, debit or credit card has the VISA logo, you can withdraw tögrög, the local currency. Other card types are also accepted, simply not as widely, for example, the machines in the central Post Office and main street will not accept foreign MasterCards although they bear the logo. The machines in Golomt Bank branches are more reliable. Also on the 2nd floor of the State Department Store you can find on ATM accepting foreign cards. The more expensive shops take credit cards, but almost everywhere else runs strictly on cash. Note that most credit card companies will pass on the 3% "foreign currency conversion fee" to you.

There are many exchange offices in the center along Peace Avenue to change your currency into tugrugs. One is on the ground floor of the State Department Store. Large Hotels like the Ulaanbaatar Hotel one block east of Sükhbaatar Square will exchange money 24/7 at the reception, which may be your only option if you arrive very late in the day.

Eat
Nobody travels to Mongolia for the food, but Ulaanbaatar has a good range of Western, Asian and Mongolian options. No other city this side of Beijing has close to a comparable selection. Even better, meals here are quite reasonable. You can get perfectly reasonable pizza for $3, even a night out at a fancy French cafe shouldn't pass $20. Consider splurging on a couple good meals here, especially if headed out for a long trek into the country. Be aware that fresh vegetables, especially in winter, are hard to come by and expensive.

Korean and Chinese restaurants dominate the city. As Asian restaurants in America tend to tailor their menu to the Yankee palate, so in Ulaanbaatar do the East Asian restaurants tailor their menu to the Central Asian palate.

Budget
* My Homemade Khushur, (On Peace Avenue near the State Department Store). Serves a favorite Mongolian dish, mutton fried in dough. One khushur is 150T, and three is a pretty adqueate meal. .

Mid-range

* Ubdeli Restaurant, Seoul Street. The UB deli is popular with foreign expats, tourists and the trendy locals alike. In addition to a breakfast menu, they serve sandwiches as well as delicious pizzas, pastas and salads for lunch and dinner. And they also have free WiFi internet service to make your stay more convenient and comfortable. .

* American Ger'll, (right across the Peace Bridge on the right). Best American-style, thick crust pizza in town. The large pizza will feed 5-6 people for about US$20. They also have an extensive foreign menu, including good coffee drinks. You should get there early, because this place is a favorite among Mongolians and expats alike. .

* City Cafe, (across the street from Sukhbaatar Square). Great food and location, wonderful staff, good prices. If you want tasty and healthy Chinese food, this is the place to go. .

* California Restaurant, (on Seoul Street not far from the State Department store). Extensive foreign and Mongolian menu. Beautifully decorated, this is one of the best restaurants in town. It's a bit small, but in the summer there is additional outside seating. Reservations are advised.

* Mongolian BBQ, (Sukhbaatar District, Seoul street – 9, in the right side of Ayanchin Outfitters). 12pm. The first US franchise restaurant and it offers a lively interactive and celebratory atmosphere. The food is cooked to a very high standard and works as an interactive buffet: diners select ingredients from an open buffet and give it to the grillers who cook it up on a Historical Mongolian Style grill and add a dash of one of the many, tasty chef’s own sauces. All ingredients are sourced locally and the menu reflects the franchise’s BD’s Mongolian Barbeque moniker. Its unlimited “Create Your Own Stir-fry”, features fresh vegetables, meats, sauces and spices. .

Moscow

Main sites

Inside the Kremlin

* Red Square – The heart of Moscow and the first destination of most visitors to the city. Surrounded by St. Basil's Cathedral, the State History Museum, Lenin's Mausoleum and one of the Kremlin's long brick walls. Suprisingly, the cobbles that make up the square are black and not red.

* Lenin Mausoleum – Walk past the embalmed body of Vladimir Lenin, join the debate if it is still him. You must leave all cameras, phones and bags in the luggage office. Free admission. Open 10AM-1:00PM closed Mondays and Fridays. Enter by Manezh Square near Metro Ploshad Revolutsii.

* St Basil Cathedral – Built 1555-61. Inside is a museum, although it looks best from the outside, but if you have the time, take a peek inside.

* The Kremlin – This gigantic site can not be missed. The Diamond collection in the Armoury is worth a visit on its own. There are several stunning churches that warrant a visit. Choose one or two to go inside, then enjoy the rest from the gardens. If you get a chance, the ballet in the Conference Centre has some very cheap matinee performances (and you can change seats in the interval). Tickets are 300RUB (350RUB if you want to visit the Armoury). Large bags must be left at a luggage office (60 Roubles) Metro: Ohotnii Ryad, Ploschad Revolutsii.

* Old Arbat Street – Walk down this kitschy street full of souvenir vendors, tourist cafes, lousy restaurants, artists, etc. The prices of the souvenirs vary from reasonable to ripoff. Many of the vendors offer a very high higher price, but can be talked down if you speak Russian. The stores tend to offer the same merchandise but with fixed high prices. Metro: Smolenskaya, Arbatskaya (Light Blue)

* Bolshoi Theatre – Sit in front of the famed theater near the fountain, or catch a show inside if you can. The theatre is currently under renovation. Tickets start at around 1000RUB. Metro: Teatralnaya.

* Tretyakov Gallery – One of the world's great museums, this is probably the one to choose if you only want to visit one museum in Moscow. In contrast to the worldwide collection of the Pushkin Museum, the Tretyakov is mostly a collection of Russian art. It has the best collection of Russian icons and many of the most famous pieces of modern Russian artists like Ilya Repin. Metro: Tretyakovskaya.

(NB: There are actually two Tretyakov museums now, the classic one and the 20th Century one. The classic one is where it has always been, the 20th Century one is in the Artist's House Cultural Center across from Gorky Park. They charge separate entry fees.)

* Pushkin Museum is dedicated to Western art and has one of the world's most significant Impressionist and Post-Impressionist collections, along with some Old Masters. The Impressionists and Post-Imppressionists were rather unfortunately relocated to an annex in 2007 across the street from the main building. Metro: Kropotkinskaya.

* Novodevichy Convent – Both a convent and a fortress, Novodevichy was built in the early 1500s and has remained nearly intact since the 17th century, making it one of the best preserved historical complexes in Moscow. The adjacent Novodevichy Cemetery is one of Russia's most famous cemeteries. Famous people buried there include Anton Chekhov, Nickolai Gogol, Konstantine Stanislavski, Nikita Khrushchev, Raisa Gorbachev (the former President's wife), and Boris Yeltsin. Metro: Sportivnaya.

http://wikitravel.org/en/Moscow#Main_sites

http://hostel-camelot.com/content/view/7/34/

119180 Moscow, 10 Malaya Polyanka Str. Apartment 5
☎ +7-495-2388652, +7-926-0918166

St Petersburg

REDMEDVED is the funiest and most eventful hostel in St.Petersburg.

57 Zhukovskogo str. Petersburg Russia 196211
+7 (812) 272 21 82, +7 (911) 755 04 61
Skype kate_butomo ICQ 336306917

At the front door there's a dialer - enter 4# and "B" to ring our bell
Code for second door is 268. Press all buttons in the same moment.

Getting into the Hermitage

Advice for foreigners visiting the Hermitage Museum: Find a tour group. This may have changed, call the museum ahead of time to find out.: Entry fee is 200 rubles instead of 350, and includes the photography fee and a whistle-stop tour of the museum (but note the free entry for students). Don't accept a tour from the numerous touts hanging around the queue. Instead, march past the queue and in through the main entrance, or the exit opposite if the queue's blocking the entrance (don't worry, you're not queue-jumping). Have a scout around for notices with museum tour times in your native language, or in extreme circumstances, ask at the desk. If you find a good candidate, you're all set to go to the Tours Office to book yourself on it. This is where things get slightly surreal. To get to the Tours Office from the main entrance, go forward past the cashiers, and turn left down the corridor. The Tours Office is in front of you at the end, and may or may not be marked. Get yourself a place on your tour, collect the bit of paper, go to cashier No. 5 (who is not with the rest of them, instead turn left out of the Tours Office and she's in a box at the end of the corridor), pay, get your paper stamped, take it back to the Tours Office and get it checked, stamped again and muttered over and then you're ready to brave the coat dungeon.
Understand

Founded by Peter the Great, the former home of the Czars and the center of Russian culture, Saint Petersburg was known as "The Venice of the North" in its heyday. Rechristened Petrograd during the first World War, the city was renamed Leningrad in 1924 in honor of the communist revolutionary, V.I. Lenin. Bombed, blockaded and starved during World War II, the city took a back seat to Moscow during the Soviet era.

Since the collapse of the Soviet Union, the city has been rapidly making up for lost time and is by far the most cosmopolitan of Russia's cities. Renamed once more in the aftermath of the fall of the Soviet Union, most Russians know it as Piter (Питер), a familiar diminutive of Saint Petersburg.

* The Hermitage Museum/The Winter Palace [8] is Saint Petersburg's prime attraction, a massive palace-cum-museum showing the highlights of a collection of over 3,000,000 pieces spanning the globe. The Hermitage is truly one of the world's great museums, with an imposing setting displaying priceless works by Rembrandt, Da Vinci, Michealangelo, Reubens and more. It is recommended, though not required!, to get a tour guide. They can charge as much as $100 but they can tell you more about the building and the items and take you directly to the items you want to see.

Ticketing is complex, but the Hermitage itself is 100 rubles for Russians and 350 rubles for foreigners. Students of all nationalities get in for free, but don't forget your student card with photo! Entrance is free on the first Thursday of every month. Bags aren't allowed in the museum (and while technically neither are cameras without the appropriate ticket, they never check the photo-permission tickets so it's not worth buying them), so stash them in the busy cloakroom.

* Russian Museum, Inzhenernaya Ul. 4 (Across Ploshad Isskustv from the Grand Europe Hotel), ☎ 595 42 48, [9]. 10AM to 6PM daily ex. Tuesday. An extensive collection of Russian paintings and sculpture. The main building, the Mikhailovskiy Palace houses the main exhibits, and the Russian Museum also oversees the permanent and temporary exhibits at the Stroganov Palace, Marble Palace and Mikhailovskiy Castle. Tickets to each can be purchased separately or as a universal pass. Foreigners 350 RR, Russians 150 RR.

* Peter and Paul Fortress. You can go in for free, but to enter the church and exhibitions you need tickets. You can get a combo ticket for everything, or you can just enter the church. Other than the church, which is where the all of the Romanov Czars of Russia from Peter the Great (bar two or three) are buried, the other things on the island aren't terribly impressive, so it might be worth it to just see the church.

* The Admiralty, North end of Nevsky Prospekt (Next to the Hermitage). Not open to visitors, but worth seeing from the outside. .

* The bridges on the Neva [10]. Open 2 times per night to allow boats to pass.

* Ethnographic Museum, (Next to the Russian Museum Mikhailovskiy Palace). An interesting and educational display of the traditions and costumes of various ethnic groups found in the lands of the former Russian Empire. Foreigners 300 RR, Russians 70 RR. .

* Alexander Nevskiy Monastery. Located at the Eastern end of Nevskiy Prospekt next to the River Neva. The site also has the Tikhvin Cemetery which houses the tombs of some of the world's most famous composers; Tschaikovsky, Rimsky-Korsakov, Mussorgsky and Borodin, and also the author Fyodr Dostoevsky, along with many other famous Russian figures.

* Museum of Artillery, Combat Engineers and Signal Troops. Housed in old Arsenal fortress-like building near the Peter and Paul Fortress and surrounded by moat.

* Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood, Canal Griboedova, 2a (Between Nevsky Prospekt and the Neva), ☎ (812) 315-16-36. 10am to 8pm daily ex. Wed. A traditional style Russian church built on the spot where Tsar Alexander II was assassinated in 1881. The interior is elaborately decorated with over 6000sqm of mosaics. Foreigners 300 RR, Russians 120 RR. .

* Our-Lady-of-Kazan Cathedral (Казанский собор, Kazansky Sobor), Nevsky Prospekt and Canal Griboedova (Metro: Nevsky Prospekt). Impressive neoclassical exterior, richly decorated interior. Includes the tomb of Gen. Kutuzov, hero of the war of 1812. Free entry. .

* Saint Isaac's Cathedral, St. Isaac's Square, 4, ☎ (812) 315-97-32. 11am to 7pm daily ex. Wed. Located near to the Admiralty. It was built in 1818 and is a major attraction in the city. It is the third largest cathedral in the world. There are night time visits, too, and the view from the observation deck (separate fee)is one of the best views of the city, for those who are willing to climb 400 steps. Foreigners 300 RR, Russians 120 RR. .

* Peter the Great's Cabin. Peter the Great's men built the small wooden cabin in a matter of days for him when he planned the city and it has been preserved in a small brick building in the district Petrogradskaya. It is located close to the Cruiser Aurora on Petrovskaya Naberzhnaya.

Vasilievsky Island

* Andreyevsky Cathedral, 6 line V.O., 11, ☎ +7 (812) 323-34-18, [11]. Perhaps the most beautiful religious building on te island, built in 1780. The main cupola is framed by three narrow towers, and is topped by a two-tiered belltower. The gilt, three-layered iconostasis inside is an impressive 17 meters tall. .

* Church of the Assumption of Mary, Naberezhye Leitenanta Schmidta, 27. This five domed church was built in 1897. In 1935, as happened to many churches in Russia, it was converted by the Soviets into a warehouse, but in 1993 it was reopened for services. The ongoing careful renovations began in 1996. .

* Exchange Building (Naval Museum), Birzhevaya Square, 4, ☎ +7 (812) 328-27-01 (museum@mail.admiral.ru, fax: +7 (812) 328-27-01), [12]. 11AM-6PM Tu-Su. The Exchange Building, which houses the Naval Museum, is the centerpiece of the Strelka ensemble. It was built in 1816 in the Neoclassical style. The Naval Museum, one of the largest in the world, contains historical displays of the Russian navy from its founding to the present day, including weaponry, models of ships, and even some original mastheads. Extensive World War II display, and also (not directly related to Naval history) a diorama box of the storming of the Winter Palace. Foreigners 320 rubles, Russians 90 rubles. .

* Ivan Kruzenshtern Statue, Across from Naberezhye Leitenanta Schmidta, 17. A statue of Admiral Ivan Kruzenshtern, was built in 1870 in honor of the 100-year anniversary of the renowned Admiral's death. .

* Kunstkamera (Room of Curiosities), Universitatskaya Embankment 3 (Close to the Palace Bridge; enter around the corner on Tamozhenny Pereulok), ☎ +7 (812) 328-07-12 (museum@kunstkamera.ru), [13]. 11AM-6PM Tu-Su, closed every last Tuesday of the month. This museum is primarily famous for its one-room freak show collection of 300 year-old deformed fetuses in formaldehyde (of which you are not allowed to take pictures). The rest of the museum consists of trinkets from various world cultures (over one million exhibits). It's of interest mainly as it is the oldest state museum in Russia, established by Peter the Great in 1704—consequently it has a very dated feel. Foreigners 200 rubles, Russians 100 rubles. .

The Menshikov's Palace

* Menshikov Palace, Universitatskaya Embankment 15, ☎ +7 (812) 323-11-12. 10:30AM-5:30PM Tu-Su. Operated by the Hermitage, this museum displays some art and an exhibition on life in the early 18th century, in a palace built for the first governor of St. Petersburg, and before him Peter the Great. The Baroque palace was built in 1721, and was one of the first grand stone constructions of the city. Look especially for the grand staircase, and the Walnut, Naval, and Chinese rooms. .

* Mikhail Lomonosov Statue, Mendeleevskaya St. A statue of the famous 18th century Russian Renaissance man himself, famous for his contributions to mathematics, literature, painting, natural science, chemistry, physics, mineralogy, history, philology, and art. .

* Mining Institute Museum, 21st line V.O., 2, ☎ +7 (812) 321-40-82 (museum@spmi.ru, fax: +7 (812) 327-73-59), [14]. By appointment for group tours only. One of the largest and oldest geological museums in the world, containing more than 230 thousand items, collected from more than 80 countries. Even if you don't make it inside on a tour, it's worth passing by to admire it's imposing 1811 Imperial-style facade. .

* Narodovolets (the People's Will) Submarine D-2, Shkipersky protok, 10, ☎ +7 (812) 356-52-66 (info@navalmuseum.ru), [15]. W-Su 11AM-5:15PM. A small museum aboard a WWII submarine, dedicated to the actions of the submarine throughout the war (run by the Naval Museum). .

* Naval Institute, Naberezhye Leitenanta Schmidta, 17. The oldest naval academy in Russia, founded by Peter the Great in 1701. Some of its most famous graduates include Ivan Kruzenshtern, Rimsky-Korsakov, and many others. The building was completely rebuilt in 1798. .

* Rostral Columns. The first monuments you'll immediately notice on the Strelka, the Rostral Columns are yet another symbol of the city. Constructed in 1810, the columns are each adorned with six rostra (traditionally, the prows of captured ships), symbolizing the might of the Russian Baltic Fleet. On top of the columns you'll see sculptures representing the great rivers of European Russia, the Volga, Dnieper, Neva, and Volkhov. In addition to their decorative purpose, the columns also served as lighthouses, and to this day the gas flames are lit on holidays. .

* Rumyantsevsky Park and Obelisk, between the 1st and 2nd lines along Universitetskaya naberezhye. The big obelisk in the center of the park was moved here from Mars Field in honor of Count Peter Rumyantsev's victory in the Russo-Turkish War of 1791. On the southern end, look for two statues of the famous Russian painters Repin and Surikov. .

* Russian Academy of the Arts, Universitetskaya naberezhye, 17, [16]. Russia's largest center for advanced study in the arts, founded by Lomonosov and Shuvalov, and was until the 20th century the only school of its kind in Russia. The impressive neoclassical building was built in 1788. .

* Research Museum of the Academy of the Arts, (Inside the Academy of the Arts), ☎ +7 (812) 323-35-78, [17]. W-Su 11AM-6PM. A huge collection of drawings, prints, paintings of both Russian and Western artists, as well as casts and sculptures, all on display across three floors of the Academy. The models of great Petersburg architecture, of the Smolny Monastery, St Isaac's Cathedral, Mikhailovsky Castle, etc., are especially worth seeking out. .

* Theban Sphinxes, (across the road from the Academy of the Arts). You wouldn't expect it, but these two granite sphinxes are three thousand years older than the city itself! They were excavated in 1820 in the temple of Amenhotep III near Thebes. Upon seeing them, the Russian writer and diplomat Muravyev wrote to the Tsar, and convinced him to purchase the statues for display in Petersburg. They were installed in 1834. Oddly enough, sphinxes seem to be popular in the city—tere are another six made by Russian sculptors lurking about. .

* The Twelve Colleges, Universitetskaya naberezhye, 7/9. One of Domeniko Trezini's many neoclassical buildings in Petersburg, built in 1742. The ensemble is comprised of twelve identical, connected, three-story buildings. The main facade faces Mendeleevskaya St, rather than the Neva, because at the time of construction, there was a canal in place of the street, across from which was the main market on the island. Today the ensemble houses the Geological and Agricultural departments, as well as Admissions. .

* Zoological Museum, Universitetskaya naberezhye, 1, ☎ +1 (812) 328-01-12 (museum@zin.ru, fax: +1 (812) 328-29-41), [18]. 11AM-6PM daily. A wild lesson in taxidermy, the museum contains over 17 million species, stuffed, mounted, and fossilized (although due to constraints of finitude, the building "only" displays some 500 thousand). The collection began at the Kunstkammer, and grew into its enormous state under the later Imperial period. You won't have to look hard, but look for the complete blue whale skeleton, as well as the world's only stuffed mammoth. .

Do
Opera and Ballet

No trip to St. Petersburg is complete without seeing an opera or ballet performance. The Mariinsky is perhaps the most well-known institution, but it is by no means the only theater in the city. Tickets are sold throughout the city at kiosks and shops called Teatralnaya Kassa, which charge a nominal (usually about 20 RR) fee for "insurance," which is theoretically optional. The theater box offices themselves sell tickets directly, too, and usually for the same price. Sometimes blocks of tickets sell out at the kiosks but tickets are still available at the theater, or vice versa, so it is worth checking both places if you have your heart set on a particular performance. It is possible to take not-so-small children into some performances if you take a private box, although you will need to ask when you buy your tickets.

* Mariinsky Theater, Theater Square 1, ☎ 326 41 41, [19]. The Mariinsky Theater (formerly the Kirov, which is the name the troupe still uses when touring abroad) is world-class for both opera and ballet. There are English supertitles for operas sung in Russian; operas in other languages have Russian supertitles. Performances are offered in two halls: the main theater, and the newly-built Mariinsky Concert Hall. Tickets can be purchased on the theater's website. .

* Mikhailovskiy Theater, Ploshad Isskustv 1 (Between the Russian Museum and the Grand Hotel Europe), ☎ 595 43 05. The exterior is not as recognizable as the Mariinsky, but the interior is nearly as grand, and the theater hosts both Russian and foreign headliners in opera and ballet. .

* St. Petersburg Opera, Galernaya Ul. 33 (West of the Bronze Horseman), ☎ (812) 312 3982 (spbopera@comlink.spb.ru), [20]. An intimate theater (half-sized stage, and only about 150-200 audience seats) which puts on the major repertory operas at a lower price than the major theaters and has a fascinating foyer - one has to see it to believe it. .

* Conservatory Theater, Theater Square 3 (Across the street from the Mariinsky Theater). While the hall itself is not lavish - quite sterile, really - a good option for seeing Russian and repertory operas cheaply, performed by faculty and students of the conservatory where Tchaikovsky (and many other famous figures from the Russian music world) studied. .

Concerts

The music scene in St. Petersburg is diverse, with several classical, jazz, and pop concerts to choose from each week. Tickets are available at the same Teatralnaya Kassa locations as ballet and opera tickets, although tickets to pop concerts - especially US and European stars on tour - sometimes use exclusive distributors. For pop and rock concerts, unless you buy tickets for the dance floor (tanzpol), you are expected to sit quietly in your seat as if you were at a ballet - ushers are vigilant about keeping the audience from standing up, dancing, or cheering (polite applause is allowed, but that's about all).

Several of the ballet and opera theaters above also offer orchestral and recital performances, so those are not repeated below. Also, don't forget the many small clubs where up and coming bands play.

* St. Petersburg Philharmonic Grand Hall, Mikhailovskaya Ul. 2 (Entrance across from the Grand Hotel Europe). A world-class orchestra which records and tours abroad. The Small Hall (Maliy Saal) hosts excellent chamber music performances and recitals. .

* St. Petersburg Philharmonic Small Hall, Nevsky Prospekt 30 (Next to the Metro station on Nevsky Prospekt). The Small Hall (Maliy Saal) of the Philharmonic hosts excellent chamber music performances and recitals. .

* Jazz Philharmonic Hall, Zagorodny Pr. 27 (South of Nevsky Prospekt, use Vladimirskaya Metro Station). Offers a variety of jazz performances several times per week. .

* Ice Palace (Ledoviy Dvorets), (At Prospekt Bolshevikov Metro Station). One of several sports arenas that also serves as a concert hall for pop and rock concerts. .

* Oktyabrskiy Concert Hall, Ligovskiy Prospekt 6 (Near Ploshad Vosstaniya). Pop and rock concerts in an auditorium close to the city center. .

Eat
Budget

Nothing, absolutely nothing, tastes better than hot Russian crepes with caviar, mushrooms, caramel, berries, or what have you with a cup of tea on a cold winter street.

* Chainaya Lozhka (Чайная ложка), Several locations (Nevsky Pr. 44 is one of the most centrally located). These fast-food restaurants serve blini (Russian crepes) with a variety of fillings - you choose your own at the counter. They also have a wide selection of teas. .

* Teremok (Теремок), Several locations. This blini chain began with street-corner kiosks throughout the city (many are quite easy to find), and they have expanded to include counter-service restaurants serving not only blini, but also kasha, salads, and other quick, inexpensive fare. Some central locations are Bolshaya Morskaya Ul. 11, Nevsky Pr. 60, and Nevsky Pr. 106. The restaurants have menus in English if you ask. 40-100 rubles for a filling meal. .

* Samovar (Самовар), Ulitsa Gorokhovaya 27, ☎ 314-39-45. This neighborhood blini shop makes blini as good as homemade (so says a native Russian blini-maker). Choose from a wide range of fillings and have your tasty blini made fresh; also has a decent selection of tea. Better lunch than any of the chains. No English; but you can just point at the fillings on the counter if you don't want to bother translating the menu with your guide book. 20 rubles for a blin. .

* U Tyoshi Na Blinakh (У тёщи на блинах), Several locations. Cafeteria-style Russian and Ukrainian food for a reasonable price with faux-rustic decor, not like a Soviet-era stolovaya. Has more than blini: soups, salads, meat dishes, desserts, etc. Those who know the Mu-Mu chain in Moscow will recognize this, although on a smaller scale. One location is near Sennaya Ploshad.

http://wikitravel.org/en/Saint_Petersburg_(Russia)#See

Minsk

Minsk is the capital and biggest city of Belarus. It is situated on the Svislach and Niamiha rivers. From 1919-1991 it was the capital of the Former Byelorussian SSR. It is also the capital of the Commonwealth of Independent States (CIS).

The city was 80% destroyed during World War II and as such was rebuilt in the 1950s to the liking of Stalin. Large Soviet-Bloc style buildings make up a large portion of the city. For this reason Minsk is a wonderful place to visit for those interested in the Soviet Union and are interested in seeing it almost alive.

English is not really spoken, and tourism is not a priority in Minsk. It would be wise to learn some key phrases in Belorussian and Russian.
Get around

Get around by using bus, tram, or subway or rent a car. First three are cheap and reliable. The subway is noted for being clean and safe. Additionally, each subway station is decorated uniquely. For instance, the station at Oktober Square is decorated in the theme of the Communist Revolution. The station at Victory square is decorated in a victory theme, and the Lenin Station includes a bust of Lenin and a host of Hammer/Sickle reliefs.

A panoramic English-language map of the centre of Minsk that shows every building individually is widely available from bookshops and kiosks for 5,000 roubles. It also has a conventional map showing more of Minsk and some tourist information. It's worth buying a copy as early on in your visit as you can because it makes getting around on foot interesting, easy and fun.

The Subway (Minsk Metro) is the most reliable Transport around Minsk. A train every 3 minutes and never late. You can buy tokens at a window inside the station. One ride costs 600BYR, if you don't know any Russian like me just give 6000BYR and stick 10 fingers up. Make sure you hold on, because it goes real fast.

Taxis are cheap as well. All Taxis have a base rate of 6000BYR and thats from 0-6km distance. That is the minimal pay. You will notice 6000BYR will already be on the meter.

You may also rent a car to travel around the country. Rates depend on period of hire and start from 20US/day. There are offices of Europcar, Avis, SIXT and other rental companies. You may browse a list of cars and rental companies here [3]

Regional Trains from the Central Station are also cheap. A trip from Minsk to Gomel (5 hours) with a cabin for 4 cost 20000($10US)and Usually never full.

See

* Former Residence of Lee Harvey Oswald, Vulitsa Kamunistychnaja 4 (the bottom left apartment). Lee arrived in the Soviet Union in December 1959 wanting to denounce his US citizenship and was sent to Minsk. He changed his name to Alek and married a native woman, Marina Prusakova, with whom he had a child. The young family left for the United States on June 1, 1962.

* St Mary Magdeline Church (Tsarkva Svyati Mary Magdaleny), Vulitsa Kisjaleva 42. Metro: Njamiha. It was built in 1847 in the Orthodox style - with a pointed octagonal bell tower over the entrance.

* Saint Peter & Saint Paul Church, Vulitsa Rakovskaja 4. Metro: Njamiha. Built in 1613 and restored in 1871, it is the oldest church in Minsk. It is worthwhile to go inside.

* Belarus National Museum of History & Culture, Vulitsa Karla Marxa 12. Admission 7,000BYR. Open Thursdays to Tuesdays from 11am to 7pm. There is plenty to see here, sadly there is only Belarusian explanation panels.

* Palats Mastatsva (Art Palace), Vulitsa Kazlova 3. Admission Free. Open Tuesdays to Sundays from 10am to 7pm. Several exhibition spaces showing modern art, second hand books and antiques stalls.

* Mastatsky Salon, Praspekt Francyska Skaryny 12. Open Mondays to Saturdays from 10am to 8pm. An art gallery with local artists exhibitions and some overpriced souvenirs.

Do

* Minskoe More (Minsk Sea) is an artificial reservoir 5km north of the city centre. There's a free public beach, and pedal-boat and catamaran rental. Buses leave the central bus station regularly. To get there by car, head north along the P28 and lookout for signs after Ratomka village.

* Ice Skating Rink infront of the Palats Respubliki. In Winter there are crowds of people ice skating here. It is open from 8am until 10pm and a pair of skates should cost between 3,000-5,000BYR to rent.

Eat

Advice for Vegetarians & Vegans

Meat is always on the menu. It isn't considered a meal if meat isn't a part of it but, because of a love of the potato you should be able to get vegetarian side dishes. Sometimes borsch is made with only potato and beetroot and some golubsty are only stuffed with rice. If you're a vegan you will have a very hard time trying to adequately feed yourself; buying fresh produce at the numerous markets might be your best bet. Often it can be a lot easier to try and find perhaps an Indian restaurant. Pizza restaurants usually have a meat-free pizza on the menu.

Belorussian cuisine is similar to that of the rest of Eastern Europe but particularly Russian and Ukrainian. Generally it features heavy-fat potato dishes, mushrooms, soups and baked meat.

The quality of Western European cuisine (Italian, French...) is not amazing. The average level of cafes and restaurants is low but there are several good places in the center of the city. The price of a meal at these places should cost between 20,000BYR and 40,000BYR.

* Pechki-Lavochki, Main Ave. Is a great Belarusian restaurant.

* Beze, Main ave. Viennese style café with a great bakery and light snacks.

* Gourman, close to Grand Opera Theater. Styled as an Italian trattoria. It serves Belarusian and European cuisine. Excellent quality and affordable prices.

* Freskee Cafe, Niezaležnaści Square. Café with a large choice of main dishes.

* Taj, Vulista Brilevskaja 2. Wonderful North Indian restaurant. Vegetarians will find heaven. There should be an English menu available also. Vegetarian dishes start from around BR6,000 and Mains from BR12,000. Open Noon-Midnight.

* Chomolungme, Vulitsa Gikalo 17. Huge menu with an array of cuisines: Nepalese, Tibetan, Sushi & Indian. Vegetarians and Vegans should also be able to find something here. Mains from BR8,000 to BR30,000.

* National Food, Trinity Suburb. Not the restaurant's real name but this place has "National Food" on the front in big English letters so should be easy to find. It has a large menu of traditional food available in English, including a couple of vegetarian options. Mains BR20,000 to BR30,000. The food really sticks to your ribs. They also sell honey-flavoured kvass.

Drink
Typical belarusian drink is "Kefir", which is a sort of sour milk, similar to yogurt.